Best sliding x anchor reddit. its lighter then a carabiner anyway.

Best sliding x anchor reddit. 2 quickdraws opposite and opposed can be a perfect anchor depending on the spacing of the bolts. A sliding anchor with three points doesn’t even theoretically distribute load equally as demonstrated in the image below. Seriously, it's great info. Reply reply tears-of-socrates • Yes, but since sliding X's better distribute force to the anchor bolts the likelihood of one blowing out is reduced. Do any of you guys double up your anchors like that? I was also thinking of using one dyneema sling and one nylon. Also before anyone goes on about triaxial loading, thats been tested as well and the carabiners broke MBS, and if your that worried, bring a rap ring for your master point its lighter then a carabiner anyway. I have a double length that I use for sliding X's and some cord I use for quads but they just don't cut it sometimes. If you want something bomb-proof, go with a 20-30 foot cordlette with a double fisherman's knot in a quad anchor. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. You can do better for yourself with the gear that is already pictured. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. Redundant (they dont slip guys, its been tested!), easy to equalize and easy to keep adding pieces for multi piece anchors. Two non lockers, the sling and one locker open the doors for the overhand anchor or girth hitch. This was definitely the first anchor piece that seemed geared toward a non-beginner, and as such, I appreciated the take. Equalizing anchors is important because. I build sliding You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. The Great Anchor Debate: Sliding X vs. It’s also worth noting that anchor sides with two legs will behave as stationary anchors and will not adjust to changes in direction of pull. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. Cordelette Let me first start this with saying that there will be no definitive answer to the question of which is better, since anchor building is a situation-dependent art that requires all tools and techniques at one's disposal to work. Limiter knots is the way to almost-eliminate the shock load issue but I find them to be a pain (I usually use 3/4" webbing for TR anchors) The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. " Reading it, I got it right away, but hadn't thought of it. The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. removing the redundancy that the knots give you is not something I'd advise even if it reduces the equalization and overall strength of the anchor. Because you took a ton of time, here are my thoughts: What surprised you the most? A sliding anchor with three points doesn't even theoretically distribute the load. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. Opinions? My friend and I were talking about multi-pitch anchors and were wondering why you never hear about a sliding X anchor made with cordalette? We thought it might be because some sort of friction with the cordalette would keep the system from actually sliding and equalizing, but we set one up and it seemed to work pretty well Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New sliding x is just not as safe even though it's stronger. I'd avoid using the sliding x anchor. The simplest set-up that would get you through 90% of routes with bolted anchors is a 48-inch runner with 4 locking biners (one each for the bolts and two opposing for the rope) in a non-extending sliding-x. . I made a really shitty drawing to show what I was thinking but I was wondering if anyone had any real insight into the best way to do this. sylh gmbu esxsw zrlbza qeoq zizj mvsi pyfq rcdjrs rtwdm